Here are listed the public guided walks and tours I have in my diary. I will be adding others all the time.
The Peasants Revolt Anniversary Guided Walk 6.30pm Wed 11th June 25 To book
Tudor London – The City of Wolf Hall 11.30am 13th July 2025 To Book
Jane Austen’s London Anniversary Walk 3pm Sunday 13th July 25 To book
Roman London – Literary & Archaeology Walk 11.30 am Sat 2nd Aug 2025 To Book
Chaucer’s Medieval London Guided Walk 2:30pm Sat 2nd Aug 2025 To Book
Myths, Legends, Archaeology and the Origins of London 11.00am Sat 11th Aug 2025 to Book
The Archaeology of London Walk 6.30pm Fri 3rd October 2025 To Book
The Rebirth Of Saxon London Archaeology Walk 11.30am Sat 8th Nov 2025 To Book
Charles I and the Civil War. Martyrdom Anniversary Walk Jan 30th 2026 To book
For a complete list of my guided walks for London Walks in 2025 look here
Molly Bloomsday June 16th
TYPO ALERT!
Ok for once, I cannot. No, I reallyl cannot let it go! My appalling proof-reading is one thing, but I cannot let you read about Joyce’s ‘steam of consciousness’. I have corrected it below!
Molly Bloomsday & the Stream of Consciousness.
Molly Bloomsday is a new festival, an offshoot in Derry of the Dublin based Bloomsday. Both are celebrated on 16th June which is the day on which the great book Ulysses by James Joyce is set (16 June 1904). It was published in 1922.
Bloomsday is named after Leopold Bloom and is an international festival celebrating Ulysses. Molly Bloom is her husband who has a soliloquy at the beginning of the book. The Molly Bloomsday concentrates on Molly and women’s literature. The Dublin version is a literary festival as well with people dressing up as characters from the famous book, readings, plays etc..
The Bloomsday Book
Joyce thought Odysseus was the only all-round character in literature. Not a one dimensional hero, but a man with a complex character, not always making the good choice. He based Ulysses, loosely, on Homer’s plot. The main characters, Leopold and Molly Bloom were based on Odysseus and Penelope. Stephen Daedalus was Telemachus, their son. Daedalus is Joyce’s alter-ego.
What makes the book so great is that Joyce was, with Virginia Wolfe, one of the first great Modernist writers. They used stream of consciousness from the characters’ points of view from deep in their heads. This is how Joyce describes Ulysses according to Djuna Barnes:
“The pity is … the public will demand and find a moral in my book—or worse they may take it in some more serious way, and on the honour of a gentleman, there is not one single serious line in it. … In Ulysses I have recorded, simultaneously, what a man says, sees, thinks, and what such seeing, thinking, saying does, to what you Freudians call the subconscious.”
Ulysses and I
My copy of Ulysses is very well travelled. I very often take it on holiday. I start on Chapter 1, and at some point before the end of the holiday I am still on Chapter. I stop reading. I’ve got past the beginning of Chapter 2 once.
Don’t get me wrong, I am fully convinced it is a brilliant book. It’s my best friend’s favourite book. So one day I WILL READ IT!
Actually, I quite like the sound of a steam of consciousness.
For a touch more modernism, see my post: boating-adventure-the-second-best-modernist-building-in-london/
First published on June 16th 2025
Smithfield & the Peasants’ Revolt June 15th 1381
On the 15th June, King Richard went to pray at Westminster Abbey before the climax of Smithfield & the Peasants’ Revolt. He prayed at the shrine of St Edward the Confessor. A King who knew all about the sins Kings are forced to commit to rule an unruly Kingdom and could intercede on the King’s behalf in Heaven
The Peasants’ met at Smithfield, or maybe they had camped out there overnight. It was a big field where the livestock market was held. And where people were executed. Most famously Scottish patriot, William Wallace, who was hanged, drawn and quartered here on 23 August 1305. It was also used for jousting, and one of the streets off Smithfield is called GiltSpur Street.
The King, Smithfield and the Peasants’ Revolt
The King had agreed to meet the Peasants again. We don’t know how that was organised. The King turned up supported by a group of men who included members of the City of London Corporation including the Lord Mayor, Fishmonger, William Walworth. They seem to have worn armour under their clothes. The King’s Party lined up in front of St Bartholomew’s the Great Priory.
The rebels were on the other side of the field, presumably armed with the weapons and armour they had plundered from the Tower of London. It is not clear exactly what happened, and the sources are prejudiced against the rebels.
The Rebels demands were: the abolition of all Lords except the King; all bishops except the Archbishop; all monasteries except the Friaries and the replacement of the false House of Commons, with the True House of Commons.
Wat Tyler rode towards the King’s party. Got off his pony, spat out the wine he had been drinking, and ‘Hailed, Brother’ slapping the King on the shoulder. This was not normal court etiquette.
One of the King’s party shouted at Tyler that he was a thief and a murderer. Tyler drew his sword, and William Walworth struck him down, mortally wounding him.
Commentators speculate that this might have been part of a plan. To arrive seemingly without armour, to provoke a crisis, and disrupt the rebels.
The City’s part in the events in Smithfield is fascinating. City Merchants were not generally fighting men, but they seem to be the active group the King could rely on. Interestingly, there is no evidence that the Rebels attacked the Guildhall and destroyed the legal records. They attacked most important legal institutions in London, in the days before Smithfield. So why no attack on the Guildhall?
This surely must be because the Guildhall was protected by a competent military force. And it seems these are the same people who took on and defeated Wat Tyler.
In Smithfield, the Rebels didn’t know what to do. Is it possible the King’s party shielded the murder of Tyler behind a screen of people? So they didn’t know what happened and therefore didn’t know what to do?
For surely this was a moment of true danger. The Rebels would have had hundreds if not thousands in Smithfield, some at least well armed. Some must have been archers who would have been deadly. This is not that long after the Battles of Crecy and Poitiers, where the flower of the French Nobility was killed by the English Archers. Archers were normally rank and file soldiers, exactly the class of people supporting the Rebellion. Tyler was taken to St Bartholomew’s Hospital, where he died of his wounds.
In the moment of crisis, the King is said to have ridden forward on his horse and told the Rebels:
‘I will be your leader.’
And then he led them, like the Pied Piper of Hamlin, to their destruction.
He led them out of Smithfield into the field surrounding and told them they had their Charters so it was time to go home. And mostly they did.
To be continued.
To read my post mile-end-the-peasants-revolt-june-14th-1381/
Also on this day June 15th Magna Carta was signed in 1215
First Published on 15th June 2025
Mile End & the Peasants’ Revolt, June 14th 1381
To recap. On June 14th the 1381 Rebels have control of London. They are destroying any repository of legal records they can find. People are walking the streets dispensing street justice. Foreigners who speak Flemish are being beheaded. Enemies of the people are being dragged out of sanctuary and beheaded. Properties of the leaders of the government are being ransacked and burnt.
The King is in the Tower with his advisors, fearful that the Rebels will breach the defences. I would love to be a fly on the wall of that conversation. You would think it would go something like.
‘Sire. Your safety is paramount. We will leave the castle and draw off the rebels so you can go to a place of greater safety.’
What happened is astonishing. The Royal plan was to send the 14-year-old King Richard out to draw off the rebels so that the hated Chancellor of England, Archbishop Sudbury and the Treasurer of England, Robert Hales could slip away unseen! Putting the young boy king in the direct line of fire!
There are two explanations. Hales and Sudbury were arrant cowards. Or the King was very confident of his safety and despite his youth made his advisors accept his command. This was an age where young princes took adult responsibilities early.
The King left the Tower on horse back, accompanied by two half-brothers and his mother (and others). Their reception was hostile. We have eyewitness accounts of angry rebels pulling at the King’s bridle and that of one of his attendants from the City government. The King sent his mum and brothers back to the Tower as it was too dangerous. We can only assume the King sent them back sure that the peasants did not blame him for the mess the country was in.
He went to Mile End. His clerks set up tables and began writing charters freeing the peasants from feudal duties and turning their tenure into monetary rents.
As each village received its charter, many of the villagers went home. Back at home they sometimes attacked the people who had been manipulating the legal system, believing the King had given them permission to punish the guilty.
Whether the king believed in the justness of their claim or was just placating them to gain time, we do not know. But some historians believe that the young King was sympathetic to some of their claims, until older counsel made him change his mind.
Not all the rebels followed the King to Mile End, nor went home when their charters were sealed. It is thought Wat Tyler and thousands of rebels stayed at the Tower.
They saw the Archbishop of Canterbury trying to escape. They forced their way into the Tower. Here they jumped up and down on the Queen Mother’s bed, stole armour and weapons. Then dragged Hales, Sudbury, a Franciscan Friar (William Appleton, John of Gaunt’s physician), and John Legge, a royal sergeant to the scaffold at Tower Hill and beheaded them. Their heads were put on poles and paraded around town.
When the King left Mile End he couldn’t go to the Tower so he went to Baynards Castle, near Blackfriars. We also know that, the King’s cousin, Henry Bolingbroke was in the Tower. He was the son of the hated John of Gaunt. Years later, when he was King, he acknowledged the fact that a Londoner had been instrumental in saving his life in the Tower on the 14th of June, 1381. The man was fighting charges of stealing gold from the ransacking of Gaunt’s Savoy Palace. He was given a pardon.
That night rebels remained in London, and the king’s cause had been considerably weakened.
To be continued. See also my post peasants-revolt-june-13th-1381/
First published in 2025.
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Peasants’ Revolt June 13th, 1381
The day began with the King and advisors sheltering in the Tower of London, as the rebels approached London. The King took 4 or 5 ships to Greenwich, to attend a parley with the rebels. The men of Kent descended from Blackheath on the South Side and those from Essex came to the River on the North side. The King’s advisors told him it was too dangerous to meet the rebels. So, he retreated to the Tower of London.
The Kentish rebels marched on Soutwark, opening the Marshelsea prison, and targeting properties in Southwark to ransack. They persuaded the Warden of London Bridge to let down the drawbridge and the rebels poured into the City of London. Outside the Aldgate (the home of Geoffrey Chaucer and his wife) rebels from Essex clamoured to be let into the City of London. Allies from inside the Walls, helped persuade the Warden of the Gate, William Tonge, to open it.
The rebels attacked and burnt St Johns of Jerusalem, the Knights’ Hospitalers monastery in Clerkenwell. The prior was Robert Hales, the Treasurer of England and on the list of people the rebels wanted executed for his part in imposing the Poll Tax; and running a system which used the law to keep the working class in subjection. The Fleet and Newgate Prison were attacked and prisoners released.
Prisons were a particular target because following the huge death rate in the Black Death of 1348, workers were legally required to work at pay rates predating the plague. With the shortage of labour, wages had gone up, and the ruling classes were using the legal system to stop workers benefitting from the shortage of labour. Punishment could include branding and imprisonment. This was still continuing 40 years after the Black Death!
Chaucer is an example of how the law was being used oppressively. He was accused of kidnapping a cook, Cecily Chaumpagne, from her rightful employer. It turns out that she was jointly accused with the poet of breaking the Statue of Labourers. So a cook and her new employer could be taken to the law for simply changing jobs. The ‘Peasants’ (who included not only agricultural workers, but also artisans, and even gentlemen) freed prisoners from unfair imprisonment. (see my post on this episode here)
On the 13th, the rebels also attacked the Temple, burning legal records, and attacked the magnificent Savoy Palace. This was the home of the Duke of Lancaster, the formidable John Of Gaunt, the real ruler of the country. Richard II was his nephew, and was 14 at the time. So the rebels did not blame him for the problems of the Government.
The problems included setbacks in the 100 Year War with France, as the gains of Edward III were progressively lost. In order to retrieve the situation, a series of taxes, particularly poll taxes, were levied. The rich paid the same as the poor. But the revolt only broke out when the Government realised that the 1381 tax was not bringing in so much money as the previous taxes. It became clear that a large number of tax payers had disappeared since the last tax. Commissioners were set out into Essex to find the arrears. They were attacked by the people, and the Revolt began.
John of Gaunt was in Scotland, and the King had no body of troops to impose order. in the evening with fires burning all around London, Rebels gathered outside the Tower of London. The King and his advisors were trapped inside. Rochester Castle had previously fallen to the Peasants, and so a plan was made to lure the rebels away, and allow the hated Robert Hales, and the Chancellor of England Archbishop Sudbury of Canterbury to escape.
What would the morning bring?
To be continued.
First published, in haste, on June 13th 2025
Queen Æthelflæd & the Creation of England June 12th, 918
On 12th June 918, Myrcna hlædige, “Lady of the Mercians”, daughter of Alfred the Great, husband of Æthelred, Duke of Mercia died. Queen Æthelflæd is one of those extraordinary women who, in a world prejudiced against women played a significant role in politics, ruled her country with a strong, wise hand. The Anglo-Saxon chronicle says:
‘918 This year, Æthelflæd lady of the Mercians, with the help of God, before Laminas, conquered the town called Derby, with all that thereto belonged; and there were also slain four of her thanes, that were most dear to her, within the gates.
But very shortly after they had become so, she died at Tamworth, twelve days before midsummer, the eighth year of her having rule and right lordship over the Mercians; and her body lies at Gloucester, within the east porch of St. Peter’s church.’
https://origin-rh.web.fordham.edu/halsall/source/911anglosaxonchronical-aethelflaed.asp
Her dad, Alfred found a way to defeat the Vikings. One of his key decisions was to consolidate an alliance with the Middle Anglian Kingdom of Mercia. Somehow, Æthelred, leader of the Mercians was persuaded to give up his claim to be the King. In exchange, he was married to Æthelflæd, Alfred’s daughter, and took the title of Duke of Mercia. But under the over-kingship of Alfred’s West Saxon Kingdom of Wessex. Alfred renamed his Kingdom to ‘the Kingdom of the Anglo-Saxons’. This helped the Mercians (and other former independent Kingdoms) to feel they had been liberated from the Danes. And not conquered by the West Saxons. When Æthelred died, Æthelflæd continued to rule Mercia under the Kingship of her brother, Edward.
Burghs
Together, they developed Alfred’s strategy of consolidating control by the creation of Burghs or Boroughs. These were defended townships, often reusing Roman Walls, but also putting walls around new towns. Or new walls around old towns.
Vikings were good at battle, not so good at sustaining long sieges. The burghs not only provided defence in depth, but also helped the economy with the revival of towns. These provided industrial and retail opportunities. Among the Boroughs created or restored were Tamworth, Warwick and Stafford. But, perhaps more important, was the reuse of Chester, as a strategic centre. Just as it had been for the Romans, Chester was crucial to controlling Wales, the Midlands and the North. During Queen Æthelflæd’s time the defences were extended to the River Dee.
Defensive Circuit of Wallingford – essentially an earthen rampart. An Alfredian Burgh defending a ford across the River Thames. Photo: K Flude
Æthelflæd’s Legacy
In 917 invasions by three Viking armies failed as Æthelflæd sent an army which captured the crucial town of Derby and the territory around it. The town was one of the Five Boroughs of the Danelaw, together with Leicester, Lincoln, Nottingham and Stamford. Derby was the first to fall to the English; she lost “four of her thegns who were dear to her” in the battle
Queen Æthelflæd was “renowned as a competent war-leader”. The victory at Derby led to the East Anglian Danes submitting to Edward. And York, controlled by Vikings, offered to pledge their loyalty to Æthelflæd but she died on 12 June 918.
(Last two paragraphs based heavily on: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%86thelfl%C3%A6d
This fusion of Saxon and Anglian Kingdoms was the basis of the hugely successful and long-lived Kingdom of England. Athelstan, grandson of King Alfred, having defeated Northumbria. renamed the Kingdom, England. This Kingdom survived until it was absorbed into the United Kingdom of Great Britain in 1707. Or you could say it survives to the present day.
For more on Saxon England read my post of the Venerable Bede.
First Published on 12th June 2025.
St Columba (St Colmcille) Day June 9th
St Columba, or Colmcille is one of the most important saints for the early transmission of Christianity. He was born in 521 and said to be a descendant of the possibly legendary Irish King Niall of the Nine Hostages. (The Hostages were a token of Niall’s power over Ireland as they came from the five provinces of Ireland. These are Ulster, Connacht, Leinster, Munster, and Meath. The other four hostages represented Scotland, the Saxons, the Britons, and the Franks.)
St. Columba was sent at an early age to be brought up as a Monk, and went on to set up Monasteries in Ireland at Derry and Durrow. In 563, he left Ireland, possibly because he got involved in a dispute that had a deadly outcome. He went into exile to Scotland and set up the famous Monastery on the island of Iona, Inner Hebrides. This is off the coast of what would one day be called Scotland. At the time, it was under the control of the Kingdom of Dál Riata, which was, Gaelic, nominally Christian, and controlled parts of Ulster and Western Scotland.
From Iona, Columba led the conversion of the Picts to Christianity. The Picts were Britons, speaking a different dialect of Celtic than the Gaels of Ireland and Dál Riata. Their name is said to have been given by the Romans and meant Painted Men. A shared religion, which St Columba brought from Ireland, helped towards the eventual union of the Gaels, the Picts and other British groups into the Kingdom of Alba. Alba is the Gaelic name for Scotland – meaning white, and from which we also get Albion. Alba became Scotland, which is derived from the Roman word for the area which in Latin was “Scotia”. Iona became the traditional burial place of early Scottish Kings such as Macbeth (Mac Bethad mac Findlaích). These Kings were crowned at Scone and buried in Iona. Alba was also able to take territory from the Anglian Kingdom of Northumbria, namely, the Scots-speaking areas South of the Firth of Forth. (Scots being a dialect of English). There were also Norse settlers in the Ireland so Scotland was made of a coalition of Gaelic, Brittonic, Norse and English speakers.
St Columba and the Loch Ness Monster
Much of the events of this part of Columba’s life are recorded by St. Adamnan in The Life of Saint Columba. This was written in the 7th Century, much of which is apocryphal. One notable story tells how he came across a group of pagan Picts who were mourning a child killed by a monster in the River Ness. St Columba revived the child. He then sent one of the Brothers to swim across the Loch to fetch a boat. The “water beast” pursued the Monk and was about to attack him when St Columba told the monster to stop. So it did, retreating to the depths of Loch Ness. Thus began the legend of the Loch Ness monster.
St Columba died in 597AD. Iona continued to prosper and in, 634 sent St Aidan from Iona to found the Monastery at Lindisfarne. The island is on the Eastern coast of Britain in the Anglo-Saxon Kingdom of Northumbria. This Kingdom of the North Angles, was one of the most powerful at the time and Lindisfarne was instrumental in its conversion. The tradition of evangelism took hold in the British Isles, and it was from here that much of the German-speaking world was converted to Christianity.
This is St Columba’s legacy.
Northumbria’s Contribution to the development of Christianity
There is a developing understanding among scholars that this Irish inspired form of Christianity, fused with the Anglo-Saxon Northumbria took a leading role in ritual, art, scholarship in the Roman Catholic world. Just stop and think about that sentence for a moment. The northern parts of an out of the way set of islands off the edge of Europe took a leading role in the development of Western Christianity. This was highlighted in a recent exhibition of Anglo-Saxon art at the British Library.
A look at the Lindisfarne Gospel and the Book of Kells showcases the amazing art of this period. For a real treat, look through this scrollable virtual copy of the Lindisfarne Gospel. (Currently this is unavailable, I suspect since the BL was hacked. So instead, here is a slightly breathless online introductory video of the Gospel.)
The Book itself has been missing from the displays of the British Library for a couple of years, but was on display in Northumberland in 2022. I’m not sure whether it is yet back on display at the British Library. I think not. You can see the Book of Kells at Trinity College, Dublin or look at their online offering here: Not quite as joyous an experience as the online Lindisfarne but beautiful enough.
Lindisfarne evangeliarium, tapijtbladzijde op f26v, Matteüsevangelie
Click here to read my post on Scone and the emergence of Alba.
Here is a virtual tour of Iona
Here is a 360-degree panoramic photo tour of Lindisfarne Abbey
First Published in 2023, revised, 2024 and improved 2025
Whitsun
Today, June 8th, is Whitsun or Pentecost. 50 days after the Crucifixion. Celebrated on the 7th Sunday after Easter. The Day the Holy Ghost descends on the disciples. According to one of my teachers, it gave the disciples the power of expression and turned them from bereft disciples to self-confident Apostles. They could now begin to spread the Christian message.
Giotto’s painting shows the Apostles with their halos in the chamber. There are 12 of them, St Matthias having replaced the dead, Judas. The Holy Spirit is represented by the little dove in the centre of the Ceiling. The narrative is carried by the two men in the foreground leaning towards each other. We imagine them saying something like ‘What’s all this about! Galilean nonentities, lost their guru and yet, confident, speaking authoritatively to all and sundry and they can all understand them?‘
Giotto was a forerunner of the Renaissance. According to the great Giorgio Vasari (30 July 1511 – 27 June 1574) who wrote about the advances in painting achieved by Italian artists:
‘that very obligation which the craftsmen of painting owe to nature, who serves continually
as model to those who are ever wresting the good from her best and most beautiful features and striving to counterfeit and to imitate her, should be owed, in my belief, to Giotto, painter of Florence, for the reason that, after the methods of good paintings and their outlines had lain buried for so many years under the ruins of the wars, he alone, although born among inept craftsmen, by the gift of God revived that art, which had come to a grievous pass, and brought it to such a form as could be called good.‘
The miracle was that this boy, a poor shepherd with no training in art was able to show nature its true face.
‘One day [the artist] Cimabue, going on business from Florence to Vespignano, found Giotto, while his sheep were feeding, drawing a sheep from nature upon a smooth and solid rock with a pointed stone, having never learnt from anyone but nature.’
One of the points Vasari is making is that the Byzantine Art had lost the use of perspective, something the Romans knew. Paintings had become cartoon like spaces had no solidarity, groups of people stood on shoulders. If you look at the painting above you will the room the Apostles are in has the beginnings of a realistic space, the rafters slope down to a vanishing point. The Apostles are ranged convincingly around the space. Their faces are rounded and realistic. They are separated from the outside world by a dividing wall. And two dudes at the front are convincingly on the ground, rather than hovering in mid air (though I might have cropped the photo too closely!)
It would be over one hundred years before photo realistic portraits and realistic perspective paintings were rediscovered but Giotto showed the way.
For more on Giotto see my post here:
And on Italian art and perspective my post here
First published on June 8th 2025
The most important weather forecast in History D Day June 6th
In 2014 or thereabouts I went to a play by David Haig which was based on the true story of a weather forecaster’s role in D Day. James Stagg’s advice was that the weather on June 5th, the intended day, was too volatile. He suggested the 6th June 1944 instead.
The play was called Pressure and was great because it really conveyed the enormity of the decision that Ike, Churchill and others had to make. To go ahead in bad weather risked enormous casualties and the failure of the Landings. To postpone, might mean Hitler discovered the location of the invasions and might lead to disaster.
Major characters portrayed in the play included Ike and his driver, Kay Summersby with whom he was very close. Also depicted was an American forecaster who disagreed with the British meteorologist James Stagg. How much of the play was for dramatic effect and how much is true, I’m not entirely sure but it is a fascinating D Day story.
The maps were hand drawn and partially based on intercepted data decoded by the enigma machine. Stagg recommended postponing the landings one day from the 5th to the 6th of June, when it was hoped the ideal combination of calm seas, low water at first light and a full moon would occur.
Maps used to present the data have recently been up for sale and are discussed here https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-somerset-68845546
I was reminded of the play by this article on the weather on D DAY on the BBC website https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/articles/c2995n9wgz8o.
Please have a read.
First published 2024, republished 2025.
St Agatha, Ravenna and Motor Cycling in Inferno
Today, I am in Ravenna. One of those places where the history brings gasps of amazement. To honour my visit, I thought I should roll out last year’s post. This is what I said:
When I revised my Saint Agatha post (link see below), I felt I needed an early image of Agatha. After all, her cult spread early on, and therefore, was likely to be genuine.
As I started to track down her image I was led, with some joy, to one of the most amazing Churches in the wonderful town of Ravenna. I visited the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo with some wonderment when working as an archaeologist at Ferrara, in Emilia-Romagna. Forty Years ago.
I found out that Agatha was one of 22 female Saints on one of the walls of the Church. I discovered a pretty comprehensive description of the Church. As I looked at it, I noticed the record was made by, or involved, Professor Bryan Ward-Perkins. He was the Director of the site my friends and I worked on in Ferrara! (And I met him again last night, 2025 for the first time in years! We had dinner with fellow archaeologists, and Bryan was talking about the work he did on the Saints of St Apollinaire.)
Ravenna
I’m guessing Bryan suggested we visit Ravenna on one of our trips to the beach at nearby Rimini. Ravenna was so awesome because the City became the capital of the Roman Empire in the West. It took over when Rome fell, then it was part of the Ostrogothic Kingdom, then of the Byzantine Empire. It spanned the period of the Arian Heresy.
And so, it was provided with some of the great glories of 5th and 6th Century Architecture. These include the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Neronian Baptistery, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Arian Baptistery, the Archiepiscopal Chapel, the Mausoleum of Theodoric, the Church of San Vitale and the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe. It’s hard to overestimate the impact on a young British archaeologist of seeing 5th Century buildings with roofs and astonishingly detailed mosaics still intact. Please visit!
Bryan Ward-Perkins description says ‘All the saints are haloed, bear crowns and are dressed in elaborate court dress. Unlike the men …., all have essentially the same youthful features. The only saint with a distinguishing attribute is Agnes, who is accompanied by a lamb.’ The men are given some personality, some have white beards others are youthful. While all the female martyrs are, essentially young virgins, and cannot be distinguished from each other. St Agatha, the list says, is the Saint next to Agnes with her lamb; the third in precedent. You can see her above and in detail below.
Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo wikipedia
Motorcycling from Ravenna to Inferno
Enough of the sublime! Now for the ridiculous. Whether on this visit or another, we decided to have a day at the beach at Rimini. After the day on the beach, a collective decision to stay over was made. The reason was to go to one of the big clubs (did we still call them discos?) probably to dance to ‘Frankie Goes to Hollywood’.
However, the hotels were all full. So I decided, late at night, to go back to Ferrara, on my own on my 175 cc Yamaha motorbike.
Thing was, I had started the day in Ferrara in the blazing Italian summer heat. So, I had hopped onto my bike dressed in shorts and t-shirt. Ferrara was 77 miles away (says google). One hour into the trip back, I was getting pretty cold, and really not enjoying driving through the lonely countryside. Therefore, I decided to pull off the main road to find a rural hostelry for what remained of the night.
Now, I remember this very vividly – the only likely road I could find was signposted to ‘Inferno’. I shrugged my shoulders, wondering what that was about, and drove towards it on a very deserted road. Eventually, I came to a sign which told me I was about to enter ‘Inferno’.
There was something very surreal about the situation. My courage failed me! I was not going to stay in a ‘motel’ in a place called ‘inferno’! I had seen too many horror films set in Motels and one in Inferno seemed madness. So, I turned round and continued my cold journey to Ferrara.
Inferno
Whenever I tell this story, I have some doubt about it. Did I really drive into a place called ‘Inferno’? But I have, for the first time, checked Google. It tells me that the road off the Rimini to Ferrara road goes through somewhere called: Vicolo Inferno, 40026 Imola BO, Italy.
Below is the post about St Agatha of Sicily who has a most interesting story.
Written in 2023 and updated in 2024, and 2025
St Kevin’s Day June 3rd
Thank you very much to my subscriber for alerting me to St Kevin’s Day which is my Saint’s Day. I was aware of St Kev and that the name meant ‘of noble birth’ but that’s was the extent of my knowledge.
But a little research on Wikipedia while on the train to visit my Dad, revealed that Kev lived to the grand old age of 120, born in 498 and died in 628. As my Dad is 97 and still going strong, maybe he and St Kevin will inspire my longevity?
Briefly, St Kevin met the great St. Columba; had a poem written about him by the marvelous Seamus Heaney (https://poetryarchive.org/poem/st-kevin-and-blackbird/); a song by the Dubliners; several mentions by James Joyce and a long distance path, the St Kevin’s Way, part of the Camino de Santiago network, named after him. And St Kev can help us understand the weather for the rest of June :
‘The weather on St Kevin’s Day will last all month‘.
So that means uninterrupted sun. At least in Ravenna where I currently am.
Coemgen, as he is known in Irish, was a hermit, living in a cave-like ledge above a lake. His piety attracted followers and a monastic settlement. He was known for his ascetic life and love for nature. So, a role model for all us Kevins?
His hagiography was written very late, so little of it can be confirmed. But, like other saintly hermits, he is associated with being tempted by women or the devil disguised as a woman. (St. Anthony the Great, St. Benedict of Nursia, Saint Chrysanthus, St. Vitus, St. Bernard of Clairvaux, St. Hilary etc.) Unfortunately, rather than just resisting his temptress, Coemgen is said to have drowned her. Not so good!
On the other hand, my sister sent me this photo of a souvenir from a shop in Northumberland.
That’s more like it! And oh so true! Clearly we, handsome, clever, positive, analytical Kevins have a lot going for us, despite the name.
For more on the Temptations of Hermits read this article:
Nechita, Andrea.“Offering Body, Pleasure, and Wealth: The Visual Representation of Women Tempting Saints (Fifteenth and Sixteenth Century).” Annual of Medieval Studies at CEU, 20 (2014): 96-112. For a summary, and some tempting illustrations, look here.
First written in 2023. revised June 2024, 2025